Secrets of style from industry insiders

I came to my love of fashion very early in life, around the age of 8, when I first discovered Betsy McCall paper dolls. For those of you too young to remember, they were a real "thing" in the 60's attracting an almost cult following. Every little girl waited for the McCall's Magazine to be delivered so they could rush in with their scissors. That love of fashion never left me. As a matter of fact, I began modeling at the tender age of 13. My first job was for one of the biggest department stores in St. Louis, Famous-Barr. I posed with a horse dressed in an ugly brown leather "jumper." 

When I became a Playboy Bunny in St. Louis in 1973, I continued modeling and added "make-up artist" to my resume...well, sort of. I love the art of make-up and would "redo" anyone who came close to me, including my fellow Bunnies, my aunts and cousins, anyone I could get my hands on. 

After I left Playboy, I was lucky to have modeling opportunities that took me all over the world — a fashion shoot for Burberry in the Pyrenees in Spain, a billboard in Times Square for JVC, and even on a camel in the Canary Islands. That love of fashion and beauty is still with me, albeit my style changed somewhat during our Covid crisis —I became more concerned about matching my Dearfoams to my sweatpants than finding the perfect evening gown. 

Now, however, I do feel the winds of change in the air. I think fashion and beauty can be a barometer of how we feel. I remember before my mom passed away, I could gauge how she felt on whether or not she had applied lipstick. I think this issue is timely in many ways — people are returning to in-person events and, therefore, looking for new ways to present themselves. Nowadays, maybe more than at any other time, I think we all want to seek out anything that makes us feel better. For me, it's dressing up, maybe not like I did in the past — not sure I'll ever want to see a long gown again — but I do want to put on my lipstick and maybe a (little) heel. How 'bout you?

Chicago is rich in tastemakers and designers, so I mined their talents to share some ideas that might make you want to dive into the deep end of the fashion pool. Take a look at these fabulous tips and trends from beloved industry insiders. 

Peach Carr burst onto the scene as a cheeky self-taught designer featured on Project Runway Season 8 and All Stars of Project Runway Season 2. Drawing on her childhood in the 60s and 70s, Peach finds inspiration for her designs from the music, art and vibe of that era. Her style was dubbed by Project Runway's Tim Gunn as "country club chic," Peach designs for the woman who likes to be on-trend yet comfortable. Her top tips: 1) A closet staple — skinny black slacks and a crisp, white blouse. The blouse, if long enough, can hide a multitude of sins. 2) A nude shoe is a must. It elongates the leg and draws attention to your face and outfit rather than your feet. 3) Invest in a killer handbag. The new trend is not to be matchy-matchy. 4) Combat boots go with everything. I recently wore them to a black tie wedding with a 3/4 length formal skirt. They looked way better than my Louboutin flats. Mix up formal with casual for an unexpected look. 5) We are all beautiful in our own way. Believe in your beauty and be confident that you look and feel great. Trust me, you can find great fashion that is comfortable AND chic. So let go of any body image issues and go shopping (peachcarrdesigns.com) 

Elda de la Rosa started her couture business in 2000 with a sensibility for designs that are inspired by vintage detail. Debutantes, newly-engaged and other fashionable women flock to her Oak Street atelier for finely crafted gowns, cocktail dresses and everyday wearables. Elda's advice: 1) When picking out wedding dresses, try on everything. What doesn't look good on a hanger might be fabulous on you. 2) Extend the longevity of your wardrobe by refitting outdated staples into current styles. 3) Match your neckline to the shape of your face to complement your natural beauty and overall look. (eldadelarosacouture.com)

Mark Roscoe has been involved in the fashion industry for the past 30 years. He personally selects only the finest fabrics from a global marketplace, preferring silks laced with unusual textures, colors and patterns. The "Mark Roscoe Make A Statement Collection" has appeared at some of the most prestigious events, including the Emmy Awards, the Cannes Film Festival and the Tony Awards. He launched his bespoke men's clothing line in 2019 with business partner, Eli Soto. Here are his top tips: 1) As we emerge from Covid 19, it's important to refocus on our appearances. So put the sweatpants in a drawer and dress up! It shows you care enough to participate in life again. 2) Your pre-Covid wardrobe may have gotten a little tight, so invest in some expert tailoring. It's all about the fit. 3) Foundation garments are essential, for both men and women. And ladies, find a bra that fits and hike them up where they belong. 4) Your smile is your best fashion accessory. Nothing destroys a beautiful design more than a sour spirit. Be kind to each other and enjoy a fashionable fall. It's time to live again! (markroscoedesign.com)

Borris Powell, born in Piedmont, Alabama, blazed a path across the fashion world when he won the coveted Oscars Design Challenge in 2011 and he hasn't looked back. His brand now encompasses, not only men's and women's clothing, but also handbags, home goods and more. His recent fashion show, "To Be In Love," sold out in record time and attracted the who's who in Chicago. His tips include: 1) Always express your mood. We all have different moods and they change daily, embrace the variety and run with it. 2) Don't overthink it. Live in the moment. Make fashion fun. 3) Make your own rules. Embrace whatever makes you feel good and own it. (borrispowell.com) 

Lauren Lein Cavanaugh, a 25 year fashion industry veteran, is also a five-term president of the Apparel Industry Board. Her latest collection is an homage to her late mother Dorothy and features nods to her whimsical, creative style that was inspired by things like a favorite tomato pincushion, fresh line-dried sheets and the family curtains with a digital photographic print designed by her husband Thomas Cavanaugh. Her tips include: 1) Wear what you love — colors, patterns, styles — identify what makes you "you" and capitalize on it. Don't let anyone dictate what you can or cannot wear. Short shorts at 50? Absolutely, be bold and daring, if you choose to be, just be you. 2) Don't be afraid to hang onto an oldie but goodie. That favorite threadbare daisy bathrobe and wool Army sweater of your dad's can be redesigned and made into a beautiful new wearable or even a decorative pillow. Save the earth, repurpose those favs. 3) For fall, I love the "collage therapy" of mixing and matching patterns and pieces for a whole new look. Caution, this look can come off as clown-like, but that is also a trend right now due to uncertain times and our need for comfort. 4) Good basics are worth the investment. 5) Last simple trick, to look your tallest and most chic, match your shoes (in tone) to your hair color. This creates a long line, top-to-bottom. (laurenlein.shop) 

Al Menotti began designing in the '80s and was a "star" at the Ray College of Design, finally doing what he'd wanted to do as a child. However, he started caring for his elderly mom soon after graduation ("I adored my mother and would do it again in a heartbeat") so had to put his design dreams on hold. Today, he enjoys painting, hairstyling and designing jewelry as well as creating elegant, timeless women's fashions. Here are a few of his fashion tips: 1) Experiment with unusual color combos and different textures. Don't be too matchy-matchy, your look will begin to look too contrived. 2) Don't wear something just because it's trendy, it might not always translate into the best look for you. 3) Investment dressing is practical no matter what one's financial status is. I believe if you choose wisely, it can be worn for years to come. 4) A woman can look fabulous at any age. Don't forget it. ([email protected])

As a former Ford model, designer Robin Harris discovered she couldn't find clothing that fit her tall frame off the runway so she created a business that filled that void. Model Atelier focuses on classic, elegant pieces for elongated frames. Her other line, Confidence Apparel, is intended to empower young women and men of all shapes and sizes with a portion of the proceeds supporting youth in underserved communities. Her pro tips: 1) When wearing black and white, always add a pop of color. 2) Confidence is the best outfit a woman can wear. 3) A good, well-tailored blazer will take your outfit up to a top notch look. 4) When shopping, look for versatile and timeless pieces that can withstand the trends. (shopmodelatelier.com) 

Shernett Swaby started sewing at age 8, making clothes for her dolls. She parlayed that talent into a top-five finish on Project Runway Canada. Now she divides her time between Toronto and Chicago expressing her inner rebel by coloring outside the lines with her avant-garde designs. Her top tips include: 1) Shop for sustainable, local and better quality clothing. Fast fashion contributes to pollution, loose labor laws and the items are not very well made. When you buy from local designers and shops you are stimulating the local economy, helping small businesses thrive and buying garments that will last longer. 2) It's okay to own more than one of the same thing. Get it in different colors, necklines, sleeve lengths, etc. 3) Don't "type-cast" your clothing. Discover new and creative ways to wear it differently by adding accessories. (shernettswaby.com)

The "Contessa", Helena Kogiones, has been a well known fixture in the Gold Coast. For 15 years, her boutique Contessa Bottega, was located on Oak Street and for the last 23 years, she can be found at 1 E. Delaware. Her store showcases eclectic mixes of classical and exotic fashions along with her eponymous fragrances and body lotions. Her trends for fall: Pleated skirts, high-waist pants, leopard, retro jeans/faded denims, flight jackets, '70s patchwork, exaggerated shoulders and sleeves, thick cuff jewelry, multiple bracelets and jewel tones. (contessabottega.com) 

Katie Walsh, senior marketing manager at the Fashion Outlets of Chicago located in Rosemont. This outlet shopping center with more than 130 stores offers high design at discounted pricing, something we all can use. Katie shared some of the top trends she's seeing at the stores there: 1) '90s inspired looks are the go-to trend across the board. 2) Boots are back. This fall, tall, pointed toe and slouchy boots are making their triumphant return. 3) For the men, loose denim is back from the dead. Relaxed denim styles are all the rage. 4) As temps cool off and jackets come back, it's all about oversized outerwear from puffer jackets to cozy, oversized peacoats and more. (fashionoutletsofchicago.com) 

Nicole Jacob, a highly sought after makeup artist, has been described by Vogue Magazine as "an eyebrow guru with great energy and extreme attention to detail." She has been featured in Glamor, Allure, Town & Country and other top fashion magazines. Nicole works in the Gold Coast and also freelances in Arizona. Her tips: 1) The most important product is a good moisturizer. I love PCA Skincare products as they're excellent for all skin types. 2) Use sunscreen. I love Laura Mercier tinted moisturizer with SPF 30. It's lightweight and evens out your skin tone. 3) Use a bronzer; it makes everything look brighter and can also be used as a blush. 4) Pay attention to your eyebrows; they're the most important feature on your face. My go-to is Benefit Gimme Brow, it comes in 10 different shades and adds volume and tint while keeping them under control. (nicolejacob.com)

Leah Chavie, Leah Chavie Skincare Boutique, is a master at revealing the youthful, sexy skin you never knew you had. With her years of skincare experience and using advanced technologies, Leah helps your skin achieve its top potential. Her pro tips: 1) Keep your eye products in the fridge to compress and cool a puffy eye. Apply eye creams/serums in a figure eight motion to help with fluid drainage under the eye. 2) Change your pillowcases frequently to prevent bacteria buildup. Try a satin or silk pillowcase for anti-aging. 4) Loose powder foundations can be made into a liquid by adding your favorite moisturizer or serum. And any eye-shadow can be made into an eyeliner or brow product by wetting your makeup brush first and then applying the pigment. (leahchavie.com)

Personal shopper/stylist Jesse Garza started in the fashion industry at age 21 when he began selling clothing at Chicago's Ultimo. Mentored by the store's founder, the legendary style maven Joan Weinstein, Garza rose from working the sales floor to becoming the creative director, a position he held for over 10 years. In 1995, Garza moved to New York to set up a luxury lifestyle consultancy, Visual Therapy, with friend Joe Lupo. His styling tips include: 1) Before you go shopping, do a review and edit of your wardrobe. This is the best way to come up with a shopping list of what's missing. 2) Don't be consumed by the latest trends while filling your gaps. Some trends are so in that they're already out. 3) Everything that you purchase has to answer these three questions: A) Do I love it? B) Is it flattering and C) Is it the image I want to portray? 4) Always remember it's better to have less and love more than to have more and love less! (visual-therapy.com)

Heather Farley Ingram is a popular personal stylist at Neiman Marcus Michigan Avenue. She is also an authenticator of designer goods and has recently become an independent personal consultant. Due to her years-long expertise with fashion's top luxury brands, she is quite in demand. Her pro tips include: 1) Always purchase items that you get excited about wearing. 2) Know what colors look best on you. 3) Invest in fantastic outerwear. 4) Accessorize and make a statement with bold earrings and bracelet stacks. 

Tracey Tarantino DiBuono, of ZZAZZ Productions, is the city's go-to fashion show producer. Her knowledge of, and friendship with, Chicago's designers runs deep. "I don't think Chicago is out to compete with New York fashion. I think we're confident that we have our own fashion, " she wisely said. Her top tips: 1) This fall, we are seeing a royal flush of tonal looks in fuchsia, blue and emerald. Wearing one color head-to-toe is a trend too. 2) Adding a twisted scarf to the handle of your handbag is oh-so elegant. Wearing a tiny one on your wrist is chic too. 3) Give it the boot. Boots are back in thigh high, ankle booties or military styles and in every heel height. Try what suits your look or comfort level best.

(This article has been updated on 12-18-23)