Torchio triumph: A pasta bar worth the hype

The Torchio Pasta Bar, nestled in a 19th century building at 738 N. Wells St., has been a beloved culinary gem for years, and its allure only continues to grow. As a recent convert, I'm finally experiencing the buzz firsthand, spurred on by friends who couldn't stop raving. “You have to meet the owner Bill, he’s a real charmer,” they’d say, or “Sit at the bar and have Eric the bartender wait on you, he’s fabulous.” The clincher for me was the whisper, “It’s super hard to get a reservation.”

Challenge accepted. There's something undeniably enticing about an exclusive spot and, let's face it, I'm a magnet for a club that won't let me in. The reservation rules are strict: a group of four can linger for two hours, while a duo gets an hour and a half. Plus, it costs $40 upfront to secure a booking. But the effort is worth it.

Torchio Pasta Bar's history is as rich as its flavors. The story began with a family tradition: Bill Varley, the chef and owner, would make fresh pasta with his niece Maggie every Christmas Eve at his Long Island home and loved the process. After Bill and his wife Janice fell in love with Chicago during business trips, they knew this vibrant city would become their home and eventually their vision of a restaurant would be born there as well.

Their search for the perfect location came true and led them to a vacant storefront in a building from the early 1900s. It was love at first sight. Bill and Janice meticulously designed the space, revealing century-old brickwork and creating a chic copper bar and cozy dining area filled with period details. Picture yourself enjoying homemade pasta with a crisp Pinot Grigio on a snowy day inside or basking in the summer sun on their charming patio. An antique hand-crank pasta press, or torchio, hangs above the bar, a nod to tradition.

Now, let's dive into the cuisine. Beyond the welcoming ambiance and warm hospitality, Torchio offers a truly authentic Italian dining experience. All the pasta, except for the gluten-free options (which are imported from Italy), is made in-house. Many menu items are cherished family recipes, like the beloved Giovanni’s Bolognese.

This dish features handmade tagliatelle lightly bathed in Bolognese sauce, all nestled in a Parmesan basket. It's divine. Another standout is the Fresh Vegetable Pappardelle, a delightful medley of pappardelle, asparagus, peas, zucchini, and yellow squash in a lemon butter sauce, topped with Pecorino Romano.

For appetizers, the meatball dish (beef and veal in house-made tomato sauce) and the fried artichoke hearts are must-tries.

End your meal on a sweet note with Jolene’s Ligurian Olive Oil Cake or the Tiramisu.

Hats off to Torchio Pasta Bar—securing that reservation was well worth it. We'll definitely be back!